The lamp controller had the power led on but no output to the mini lamps. Purchased one a few weeks back and everything works great except there are no lights, the mini lamps. Hi, I was wondering if you could hep me with a problem with my CD100E. When I use the scan switch and manually pick the record, everything runs fine. I'm wondering if they are related but I'm not sure. If I manually push a random pin down, testing the stopping switches as they go through this cycle, the transfer arm graps the record and plays it on the turntable, but the hub switch doesn't raise for 45s and at the end the tone arm doesn't reset and the transfer motor doesn't run. When it does click for the other letters, the stopping switch and record magazines do a complete cycle looking for a pin, but the select coils don't push any down. It seems that the number wipers are able to recognize all the numbers, but the Sprag Relay S2 doesn't click for letters A through D. The big problem with it is that when the selection is made on the pushbuttons, it doesn't energize the plunger in either Select Coil to push the pin down. So we've had a JAN Diplomat in my basement for a few years now without it working, and I recently started looking at it, trying to fix what I can. but more pronounced with high frequencies because the distortion area now covers much of the wave (20 or 30%) You don't notice it as much with bass as you do with the higher frequencies because the switching frequency is so low, and the distortion area (read as distortion period) in the wave is small compared to the original (0.3% of the total cycle. if the bias goes out, one transistor is still on it's way down back to zero while the other transistor is already starting to turn on. the transistors have to be properly "biased" so when one transistor is turning off, the other is stating to turn on. this is due to the transistors starting to work against each other instead of in unison. When the bias goes out of whack, when you play music you can often hear a kind of "crunchyness" to the music when high notes (cymbal crashes etc.) hit. one transistor is responsible for pushing the speaker cones out from "zero", while the other is responsible for pulling it in. This amp works in a "push pull" kind of configuration. Yes, as the system warms up, the capacitors will drift even more out of spec causing the bias setup for the transistors to start to "wobble"